Bristol's Backyard Vineyards: Foot-Stomping Grapes in Urban Spaces

Every quarter of an hour or so, an ageing diesel-powered train arrives at a spray-painted stop. Close by, a police siren cuts through the near-constant traffic drone. Commuters rush by falling apart, ivy-covered garden fences as rain clouds gather.

This is perhaps the last place you expect to find a perfectly formed vineyard. However one local grower has cultivated 40 mature vines sagging with plump purplish grapes on a sprawling garden plot sandwiched between a line of 1930s houses and a local rail line just above Bristol downtown.

"I've noticed individuals concealing illegal substances or other items in the shrubbery," says the grower. "Yet you simply continue ... and continue caring for your grapevines."

Bayliss-Smith, 46, a filmmaker who runs a kombucha drinks business, is not the only local vintner. He has pulled together a informal group of cultivators who make wine from several discreet urban vineyards tucked away in private yards and community plots throughout Bristol. The project is too clandestine to possess an official name so far, but the collective's messaging chat is called Grape Expectations.

City Vineyards Across the World

To date, the grower's plot is the sole location listed in the Urban Vineyards Association's upcoming global directory, which includes more famous city vineyards such as the eighteen hundred plants on the slopes of the French capital's historic artistic district neighbourhood and over 3,000 grapevines with views of and within Turin. The Italian-based charitable organization is at the forefront of a movement re-establishing city vineyards in historic wine-producing countries, but has identified them throughout the world, including cities in Japan, South Asia and Uzbekistan.

"Vineyards help urban areas stay greener and more diverse. These spaces preserve land from development by establishing permanent, productive farming plots inside urban environments," explains the organization's leader.

Similar to other vintages, those produced in urban areas are a result of the earth the plants thrive in, the unpredictability of the climate and the people who tend the grapes. "Each vintage embodies the beauty, community, environment and history of a city," notes the spokesperson.

Unknown Eastern European Variety

Back in Bristol, the grower is in a urgent timeline to harvest the vines he cultivated from a plant left in his allotment by a Polish family. If the precipitation comes, then the pigeons may take advantage to feast once more. "Here we have the mystery Eastern European variety," he comments, as he cleans damaged and mouldy berries from the glistering clusters. "The variety remains uncertain what variety they are, but they're definitely disease-resistant. In contrast to noble varieties – Burgundy grapes, white wine grapes and other famous French grapes – you need not spray them with chemicals ... this is possibly a special variety that was developed by the Soviets."

Collective Efforts Across Bristol

The other members of the group are additionally making the most of sunny interludes between showers of fall precipitation. At a rooftop garden with views of the city's shimmering waterfront, where medieval merchant vessels once bobbed with barrels of wine from Europe and Spain, Katy Grant is collecting her dark berries from approximately fifty vines. "I love the aroma of these vines. The scent is so reminiscent," she remarks, stopping with a basket of grapes slung over her shoulder. "It recalls the fragrance of Provence when you roll down the vehicle windows on vacation."

The humanitarian worker, fifty-two, who has spent over two decades working for humanitarian organizations in conflict zones, unexpectedly took over the grape garden when she moved back to the United Kingdom from Kenya with her household in 2018. She experienced an strong responsibility to maintain the vines in the yard of their new home. "This vineyard has previously survived three different owners," she explains. "I deeply appreciate the concept of environmental care – of handing this down to future caretakers so they continue producing from this land."

Sloping Gardens and Natural Production

Nearby, the final two members of the group are hard at work on the precipitous slopes of Avon Gorge. One filmmaker has established over one hundred fifty plants perched on terraces in her wild half-acre garden, which descends towards the silty local waterway. "Visitors frequently express amazement," she notes, gesturing towards the tangled grape garden. "They can't believe they can see rows of vines in a urban neighborhood."

Today, the filmmaker, sixty, is picking bunches of deep violet Rondo grapes from rows of vines arranged along the cliff-side with the assistance of her daughter, her family member. The conservationist, a wildlife and conservation film-maker who has contributed to streaming service's nature programming and television network's gardening shows, was motivated to plant grapes after observing her neighbor's grapevines. She has learned that amateurs can produce interesting, enjoyable natural wine, which can command prices of more than £7 a glass in the increasing quantity of wine bars specialising in minimal-intervention vintages. "It is incredibly satisfying that you can truly create good, traditional vintage," she states. "It is quite fashionable, but really it's reviving an traditional method of producing vintage."

"During foot-stomping the grapes, the various wild yeasts are released from the surfaces and enter the liquid," says the winemaker, partially submerged in a bucket of tiny stems, seeds and crimson juice. "This represents how wines were historically produced, but industrial wineries introduce sulphur [dioxide] to eliminate the wild yeast and subsequently add a commercially produced yeast."

Challenging Conditions and Inventive Approaches

A few doors down sprightly retiree Bob Reeve, who motivated Scofield to establish her grapevines, has assembled his friends to pick Chardonnay grapes from the 100 vines he has laid out neatly across multiple levels. The former teacher, a northern English physical education instructor who taught at Bristol University cultivated an interest in viticulture on annual sporting trips to Europe. However it is a challenge to grow this particular variety in the dampness of the valley, with temperature fluctuations sweeping in and out from the nearby estuary. "I aimed to produce Burgundian wines in this location, which is somewhat ambitious," admits Reeve with a smile. "This variety is late to ripen and particularly vulnerable to fungal infections."

"I wanted to make European-style vintages in this environment, which is rather ambitious"

The unpredictable Bristol climate is not the sole challenge encountered by winegrowers. The gardener has had to erect a barrier on

Shannon Simmons
Shannon Simmons

A tech enthusiast and writer passionate about emerging technologies and their impact on society.